Crossing the street during the evening rush hour in the Cambodian capital of Phnom Penh is not for the faint of heart. Cars, trucks, tuk tuks and motorbikes – often piled high with goods or entire families – maneuver through the streets in a controlled chaos that just somehow works. At night the city gets oddly dark. Little pockets of light from the few functional streetlights are clouded with dust and when the gridlock is especially bad, motorbikes take to the sidewalks. Here, on Phnom Penh’s riverfront avenue that parallels the Mekong and Tonle Sap rivers a few brave souls line up to cross while a couple others get stranded in the middle.